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Large, gem-set brooches, worn on the bodice of an evening dress, were fashionable adornments for European women during the 18th century. Naturalistic floral motifs, like this spray of wild roses, were popular designs. This corsage ornament is a revivalist example from the late 19th century. The blossoms are mounted in silver and yellow gold, set en tremblant so they tremble to create a glittering effect in the evening light. The blossoms are detachable and can be worn separately. In 1819 the French publication Le Langage des Fleurs (The Language of Flowers) codified the meanings behind the wearing or giving of certain flowers, offering a code for lovers and friends to decipher. If these are meant to be white roses they might have symbolized the virtue and charity of the wearer. Alphonse Auger, founder of the Parisian jewelry house, Auger, made this brooch; the work of Auger was widely acclaimed at the great international expositions of the day.
Corsage ornament
Alphonse Auger (French, 1837–1904)
French
about 1890
Medium/Technique
Silver, gold, diamond
Dimensions
Overall: 23 x 8 x 2.7 cm (9 1/16 x 3 1/8 x 1 1/16 in.) ornament
Overall: 26 x 12.5 x 6.5 cm (10 1/4 x 4 15/16 x 2 9/16 in.) box
Overall: 26 x 12.5 x 6.5 cm (10 1/4 x 4 15/16 x 2 9/16 in.) box
Credit Line
Museum purchase with funds donated by the Vance Wall Foundation, Saundra B. Lane and an anonymous donor
Accession Number2012.7
NOT ON VIEW
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment – Brooches
Large, gem-set brooches, worn on the bodice of an evening dress, were fashionable adornments for European women during the 18th century. Naturalistic floral motifs, like this spray of wild roses, were popular designs. This corsage ornament is a revivalist example from the late 19th century. The blossoms are mounted in silver and yellow gold, set en tremblant so they tremble to create a glittering effect in the evening light. The blossoms are detachable and can be worn separately. In 1819 the French publication Le Langage des Fleurs (The Language of Flowers) codified the meanings behind the wearing or giving of certain flowers, offering a code for lovers and friends to decipher. If these are meant to be white roses they might have symbolized the virtue and charity of the wearer. Alphonse Auger, founder of the Parisian jewelry house, Auger, made this brooch; the work of Auger was widely acclaimed at the great international expositions of the day.
DescriptionLarge gem-set brooches worn on the chest were popular adornments worn in the evening by well-to-do European ladies during the eighteenth century. Naturalistically-rendered floral motifs dominated and in this revivalist example, made in the late nineteenth century, the flower heads are set en tremblant and mounted in silver and yellow gold. The blossoms are detachable and have individual mounts (now missing) so they can be worn separately. Has original leather box with impressed crown and the initials L.Q.on lid.
Marks
French maker's and assay marks
ProvenancePrivate collection, London; 2006, sold from this private collection to Wartski, Ltd., London; 2012, sold by Wartski to the MFA (Accession date: January 25, 2012)