Noh costume (ôguchi)

Hakama

Japanese
Edo period
late 18th to early 19th century


Object Place: Japan

Dimensions

Overall: 77.8 x 107.3 cm (30 5/8 x 42 1/4 in.) CB length - 42 1/4" Back waist width - 30 5/8" CF length - 38 1/2" Front waist width - 17

Accession Number

11.3958

Medium or Technique

Silk plain weave ground with supplementary silk and gilt paper patterning wefts tied in 1/4 twill; Back: Silk plain weave rib ground with supplmentary patterning wefts tied in 1/4 twill (Karaori)

Not On View

Collections

Asia, Textiles and Fashion Arts

Classifications

Costumes

Reddish-orange silk pleated, split skirt (ôguchi) for Noh theater with stiffened back and overall design of chrysanthemums and water in blue, violet, pink, green, yellow and brown silk and gilded paper supplemental weft patterning. The other side of the skirt is made of karaori of similar color and design, but with a fine ribbed ground and no stiffening. There are long bands of red crêpe and cords at the waist. This oguchi was worn in the Kongo School version of the play Shogo, known as Shojo Midare. The combination of chrysanthemums and water symbolizes sake.

Provenance

By 1911, purchased by William Sturgis Bigelow (b. 1850 - d. 1926), Boston [see note 1]; 1911, gift of Bigelow to the MFA. (Accession Date: August 3, 1911)

NOTES:
[1] Much of Bigelow's collection of Asian art was formed during his residence in Japan between 1882 and 1889, although he also made acquisitions in Europe and the United States. Bigelow deposited many of these objects at the MFA in 1890 before donating them to the Museum's collection at later dates.

Credit Line

William Sturgis Bigelow Collection