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MFA Images: Patterns, Design, and Decoration

  • MFA Images: Patterns, Design, and Decoration - Slide

  • Woman's head cloth or shoulder cloth (tengkuluak or kain...

    19th century

    Description

    Rectangular dark violet-red silk ground cloth with crosswise bands of alternating geometric motifs created by supplemental weft threads in gold and silk. The piece is made up of two lengths hand stitched together down the center and has narrow hand stitched hems on each crosswise end.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 264 x 78 cm (103 15/16 x 30 11/16 in.)

    Medium

    Silk, metallic gold paper-wrapped silk thread, natural dyes; plain-weave ground, discontinuous supplementary weft patterning in gold and silk

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    38.82

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Bedcover

    about 1895

    Designed by Charles Francis Annesley Voysey, 1857–1941

    Description

    Hanging consisting of 2 loom widths intended to be sewn together thereby creating central field with border running along 2 sides and bottom. Design of field: large yellow tulips with green intertwining stems and leaves against orange ground; rows of upright tulips alternating with rows of downward hanging tulips. Border: small yellow buds with long spiralling green stems. Band of white silk along lower edge. Condition very good except for tears along top and bottom. Designed for G.P. & J. Baker

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 316 x 181.5 cm (124 7/16 x 71 7/16 in.)

    Medium

    Silk plain weave, block-printed

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1976.764

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Chalice veil

    Description

    Cream white silk embroidered in pink, blue, green, black and yellow silk and gold threads.

    Details

    Dimensions

    65 x 64.5 cm (25 9/16 x 25 3/8 in.); Legacy dimension: .645 x .65

    Medium

    Silk; embroidery

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    95.1111

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Chalice veil

    17th century

    Description

    Chalice veil? White silk embroidered with a design of flowers, tulips etc., in bright greens, yellows, blues and pink silks and gold thread. center cut out.

    Details

    Dimensions

    66.5 x 66 cm (26 3/16 x 26 in.)

    Medium

    Silk faille with silk floss and gold-colored wrapped metallic thread (couched) embroidery

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    95.1108

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Chalice veil

    18th century

    Description

    Orange red silk ground; the design of waving stems bearing flowers and leaves woven in white, pink, and green silk. Pieced and lined with green silk and edged with gold braid

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 50.8 x 47 cm (20 x 18 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Brocade

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    95.1069

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Man's wrapper

    20th century

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 284.5 x 165 cm (113 3/4x 65 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Cotton plain weave with supplementary wefts (strip woven)

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    2004.676

    Collections

    Africa and Oceania , Contemporary Art , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Panels from a bed tent

    18th or 19th century

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 329.1 x 256.7 cm (129 9/16 x 101 1/16 in.)

    Medium

    Linen plain weave, embroidered with silk

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    50.2625

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • One face of a cushion cover

    18th or 19th century

    Description

    One face of a cushion cover, probably made from a larger piece cut down. Worked in satin stitch with blue silk yarns on probably a linen and cotton ground. Scrolling floral design includes birds, double-headed eagle, insects, and double-tailed mermaid whose fish tails merge with carnations; scrollwork border along one edge.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 49.5 x 38.1cm (19 1/2 x 15in.)

    Medium

    Linen and cotton plain weave, embroidered with silk

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1971.437

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Chalice veil

    18th century

    Description

    Corded silk ground on which is a design of curving stems and bunches of flowers, woven with gold thread and narrow strips of silver and gilt, blue, violet, bright red, white, green, yellow and black silk. Edged with gold lace. Much worn.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 54.6 x 47 cm (21 1/2 x 18 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Brocade

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    96.402

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of furnishing or dress fabric

    about 1914

    Designed by Paul Iribe, French, 1883–1935

    Description

    Black silk satin ground discharge-printed with allover pattern of pink and red roses with green foliage, in blue and yellow neoclassical urns with printed gold metallic highlights. Paper tag attached: "Ondoyant imprimé, 1m 25, Ton 43341, Coloris M, Appartenant à M. S.[?] Bianchini" (hand-written in ink).

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 59.1 x 87.6cm (23 1/4 x 34 1/2in.)

    Medium

    Silk satin, discharge-printed

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    2001.817

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Architectural panel with a griffin

    about A.D. 175–200

    Description

    This relief together with 03.748 presented griffins confronting one another on either side of a central element. The composition would have had sacred and protective connotations and may have formed part of the decoration of a temple. It is also possible that the reliefs embellished a large funerary structure or a secular public building, such as a basilica or market hall.

    An eagle-griffin stands with one paw raised and the central element was probably a candelabrum. The griffin's tail turns into a rich acanthus vine, which sends out a lateral shoot and terminates in a cluster of leaves. The frame consists (from inside out) of an astragal, a row of acanthus leaves with intervening leaf tongues, a Lesbian cymation, and an astragal.

    The panel is incomplete at the right end, where it has been cut off vertically. The outer, rectangular frame is somewhat damaged. It originally would have been paired with 03.748.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x length: 104 x 139.2 cm (40 15/16 x 54 13/16 in.)

    Medium

    Marble, probably from the from the island of Proconnesus in the Sea of Marmara near Istanbul

    Classification

    Architectural elements

    Accession Number

    03.747

    Collections

    The Ancient World

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  • Fragment of furnishing fabric

    late 19th century

    Possibly designed by William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    The ground is light pink and covered with red dots. The design of acanthus leaves and pomegranate-like forms is of cream, white and pink, outlined and detailed with red.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall (Unstitched, fully open): 73 x 54.5 cm (28 3/4 x 21 7/16 in.)

    Medium

    Block-printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    93.1133

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Pink satin

    Late 19th century

    Description

    The design of single roses, carnations, etc., is printed with various shades of yellow, green, brown and dark red.

    Details

    Dimensions

    22 x 40 cm (8 11/16 x 15 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed silk

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    98.70

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Front side panel of outer coffin of Djehutynakht

    2010–1961 B.C.

    Description

    The outer coffin of the local governor Djehutynakht of Deir el-Bersha is perhaps the finest Middle Kingdom coffin in existence. Like the second coffin that once nested inside it, the rectangular outer coffin was made of massive planks of imported cedar, pegged together and decorated on both its inner and outer faces. The paintings and inscribed funerary texts were intended to facilitate Djehutynakht's passage to the afterlife and to sustain his ka in eternity.

    While coffins of later periods would feature elaborate exterior decoration, those of the early Middle Kingdom were relatively plain on the outside, but beautifully embellished inside, where the offering scenes often parallel those seen in painted tombs. The paintings on the interior of Djehutynakht's coffin are masterpieces, exquisitely detailed in thick, vividly colored paint. The artist's painstaking brush strokes and eloquent use of shading produced a level of realism rarely surpassed in Egyptian art. The primary scene is on the left side of the coffin at the location where Djehutynakht's head once faced. The focal point is an intricately decorated false door through which the ka could pass between the afterlife and the world of the living. Djehutynakht sits in front of the false door and receives an offering of incense. Before and beneath him is a vast wealth of neatly piled offerings, including an oversized ceremonial wine jar, sacred oils, the legs and heads of spotted cattle, tables laden with fruits, vegetables, meat, bread, and magnificently detailed geese. The two rows of large painted hieroglyphs above the scene contain a funerary prayer requesting offerings from the king and the funerary god Osiris on festival days. At the far right is the beginning of a menu giving a full list of desired offerings. Inscribed below in neat columns of tiny, cursive hieroglyphs are the Coffin Texts, a collection of funerary rituals and spells intended to protect and guide the dead on their way to the afterlife. These texts continue around the coffin's interior.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x width: 115 x 263 cm (45 1/4 x 103 9/16 in.)

    Medium

    Cedar

    Classification

    Tomb equipment , Coffins, Sarcophagi

    Accession Number

    20.1822

    Collections

    The Ancient World

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  • Pitcher (oinochoe)

    620–580 B.C.

    Description

    From bottom to neck three bands: (1) lotus flowers and buds; (2) dog pursuing six goats; (3) palmettes, griffins, geese and goats. Creamy slip. Handle repaired.
    Body flares from base; well-defined shoulder, trefoil mouth.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height: 31 cm (12 3/16 in.)

    Medium

    Ceramic

    Classification

    Vessels

    Accession Number

    03.90

    Collections

    The Ancient World

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  • Guitar (chitarra battente)

    1725

    Jacopo Mosca Cavelli, Italian, active 1720s Italian

    Description

    Arched back comprised of thirteen ribs of bloodwood, each separated by strip of diamond-shaped pieces of pearl set in black mastic. Sides comprised of five ribs, decorated similarly to back. Two-piece belly of fine-grain spruce, bound with ivory and edged with pieces of pearl similar to back; field decorated with interlacing, foliate designs, and cherub of inlaid tortoiseshell and pearl set in black mastic. Carved rose of walnut. Neck and headstock of bloodwood (?) inlaid with interlacing similar to belly. Front of headstock veneered with ivory, tortoiseshell, and pearl, incorporating heraldic devices of star, dove, and tri-lobed mountain. Tuning pegs of boxwood (?) with buttons of ivory. Fingerboard veneered with tortoiseshell, bound with ivory, and inlaid with pearl in foliate designs. Ten frets of brass with sloped strips of ivory inlaid behind each. Nut of ivory. Bridge (modern) of maple (?) with saddle of ivory. Five pins of brass at lower end of body for fastening strings. Fourteen strings in five courses of one pair and four triples. Internal construction: Two lateral braces on belly (one above soundhole). Ribs lined with pieces of linen and parchment from pages of sacred music.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Length 93 cm, width 24.9 cm, depth 14.5 cm (Length 36 5/8 in., width 9 13/16 in., depth 5 11/16 in.)

    Medium

    Bloodwood, spruce, walnut, ivory, mother-of-pearl, tortoiseshell, brass, mastic

    Classification

    Musical instruments , Chordophones

    Accession Number

    2003.76

    Collections

    Europe , Musical Instruments

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  • Chalice veil

    17th–18th century

    Description

    Ground: cream white taffeta. Design: conventional flowers growing from each corner. In center aureole enclosing IHS. Blue, green and yellowish green, yellow, orange, reddish orange and cream white silk, couched on surface. Edged with narrow gold lace. Worn and torn.

    Details

    Dimensions

    61 x 61 cm (24 x 24 in.); Legacy dimension: 0.61 x 0.61

    Medium

    Silk; embroidery

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    27.577

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Chalice veil

    18th century

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    60.8 x 59 cm (23 15/16 x 23 1/4 in.)

    Medium

    Silk with silk embroidery

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    35.713

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Pictorial quilt

    1895–98

    Harriet Powers, American, 1837–1910

    Description

    Appliqué quilt, dyed and printed cotton fabrics applied to cotton. The quilt is divided into fifteen pictorial rectangles. Worked with pieces of beige, pink, mauve, orange, dark red, gray-green and shades of blue cotton.

    This extraordinary quilt was created by Harriet Powers, an African American woman who was born a slave in Georgia in 1837. Powers is thought to have orally dictated a description of each square of her quilt to Jennie Smith, who had purchased the first quilt Powers made, and arranged for it to be exhibited at the Cotton States Exposition in Atlanta in 1895. This second quilt is thought to have been commissioned by a group of "faculty ladies" at Atlanta University, and given (together with Powers's descriptions) as a gift to a retiring trustee. What follows is Powers' descriptions of all fifteen blocks starting in the upper left and moving to the right.

    FIRST ROW:

    1. Job praying for his enemies. Job crosses. Job's coffin.

    2. The dark day of May 19, 1780. The seven stars were seen 12 N. in the day. The cattle wall went to bed, chickens to roost and the trumpet was blown. The sun went off to a small spot and then to darkness.

    3. The serpent lifted up by Moses and women bringing their children to look upon it to be healed.

    4. Adam and Eve in the garden. Eve tempted by the serpent. Adam's rib by which Eve was made. The sun and the moon. God's all-seeing eye and God's merciful hand.

    5. John baptizing Christ and the spirit of God descending and resting upon his shoulder like a dove.

    SECOND ROW:

    6. Jonah cast over board of the ship and swallowed by a whale. Turtles.

    7. God created two of every kind, male and female.

    8. The falling of the stars on Nov. 13, 1833. The people were frightened and thought that the end had come. God's hand staid the stars. The varmints rushed out of their beds.

    9. Two of every kind of animal continued...camels, elephants, "gheraffs," lions, etc.

    10. The angels of wrath and the seven vials. The blood of fornications. Seven-headed beast and 10 horns which arose of the water.

    THIRD ROW:

    11. Cold Thursday, 10 of February, 1895. A woman frozen while at prayer. A woman frozen at a gateway. A man with a sack of meal frozen. Icicles formed from the breath of a mule. All blue birds killed. A man frozen at his jug of liquor.

    12. The red light night of 1846. A man tolling the bell to notify the people of the wonder. Women, children and fowls frightened by God's merciful hand caused no harm to them.

    13. Rich people who were taught nothing of God. Bob Johnson and Kate Bell of Virginia. They told their parents to stop the clock at one and tomorrow it would strike one and so it did. This was the signal that they had entered everlasting punishment. The independent hog which ran 500 miles from Georgia to Virginia, her name was Betts.

    14. The creation of animals continues.

    15. The crucifixion of Christ between the two theives. The sun went into darkness. Mary and Martha weeping at his feet. The blood and water run from his right side.

    Details

    Dimensions

    175 x 266.7 cm (68 7/8 x 105 in.)

    Medium

    Cotton plain weave, pieced, appliqued, embroidered, and quilted

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    64.619

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Quilt

    1830–35

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 266.7 x 269.2 cm (105 x 106 in.)

    Medium

    Wool plain weave, pieced, embroidered, and quilted

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    2005.95

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Cover

    late 17th to early 18th century

    Description

    Tapestry-woven cover with design of Chinese-influenced motifs: large fantastic birds, animals, and flowers, woven with yellow, green, blue, violet, white and pink wool, with a little silk, on a crimson wool ground. Three borders with designs similar to main field.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 238.3 x 207.3 cm (93 13/16 x 81 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Wool, silk, cotton, and linen interlocked and dovetailed tapestry

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    11.1264

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of velvet

    first half of 16th century

    Description

    Silk velvet length probably the sleeve of a caftan; red ground of cut silk pilewith voided design of cintamani, or "tiger stripes" and "three balls," brocaded with metal thread (metal wound on yellow silk).

    Details

    Dimensions

    64 x 69 cm (25 3/16 x 27 3/16 in.)

    Medium

    Silk cut and voided velvet with supplementary metal-wrapped patterning wefts

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    04.121

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Part of a long cover

    Early 17th century

    Description

    Polychrome silk and gilt-silver yarns embroidered on undyed linen ground. Pattern of eight individual floral slips repeated throughout, divided from one another by diamond lattice-work of gilt-silver yarns. Gilt-silver border at top and both sides. Cut across bottom. Other part of this embroidery is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Good condition; faded.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 186.1 x 77.2 cm (73 1/4 x 30 3/8 in.)

    Medium

    Linen plain weave, embroidered with silk and metallic threads

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    43.253

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Mantle or shroud

    about A.D. 1550

    Description

    Cameloid wool, two joined tapestry woven pieces, 1824 evenly spaced geometric motifs called t'ocapu.

    Details

    Dimensions

    119 x 171 cm (46 7/8 x 67 5/16 in.)

    Medium

    Wool and cotton interlocked tapestry with overstitched edging

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    1988.325

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Mantle

    A.D. 700–900

    Description

    Paired step-block units create squares in following color combinations; light blue/brown, yellow/dark blue, green/red. Tie-dye designs of diamonds and striped in natural, red, yellow. Selvedges and fringe intact.

    Details

    Dimensions

    114 x 187 cm (44 7/8 x 73 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Wool [camelid] plain weave with discontinuous warps and wefts, disassembled, tie-dyed, and reassembled

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    1983.252

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Piece of brocade

    Late 17th–18th century

    Description

    White and green brocaded silk ground on which is a design of a basket holding one flower and leaves and scattered sprays of poppy-like flowers, woven with pink, red, white, yellow, and blue silk.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 50.2 x 47 cm (19 3/4 x 18 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Brocade

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    93.855

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Piece of brocade

    18th century

    Description

    The ground is woven with narrow strips of silver; on this are waving bands woven with silver thread and violet silk and cord, and silver spangles, from which spring bunches of brocade and velvet flowers, woven with pink, red, white, green, and yellow silk and gold thread and narrow strips of metal.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 24 x 24 cm (9 7/16 x 9 7/16 in.)

    Medium

    Silk; brocade

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    01.5659

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Man's mantle and two border fragments

    A.D. 50–100

    Description

    Black wool ground with design worked in wool of bird impersonators with elaborate wings, fringed capes, headdresses, and snakes, carrying ceremonial staffs and trophy heads. The colors (crimson, pink, blue, dark green, yellow and grayish green) are used in four different combinations of color in the figures. Unfinished rectangles in each corner show similar figures on an embroidered golden brown ground.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall (a): 101 x 244.3 cm (39 3/4 x 96 3/16 in.)

    Medium

    Wool plain weave, embroidered with wool

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    16.34a-c

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Fragment of a floor cover

    late 17th or early 18th century

    Description

    A fragment of a thin cotton dastarkana, or "summer carpet," with seams running through the center and along the border. The center consists of undyed cotton with staggered rows of repeated red poppy plants, some of which are upside down. The border consists of a green ground with a row of red leaves or petals. Comparable examples of thin cotton floorspreads decorated with poppies have been attributed to the town of Burhanpur, a Mughal stronghold in the northern Deccan. The attribution is made on the basis of the delicate and decorative treatment of the poppy plants, which resemble those found in paintings by Deccani artists.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 169.9 x 118.6 cm (66 7/8 x 46 11/16 in.)

    Medium

    Cotton plain weave, painted, mordant dyed and resist dyed

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    66.866

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Shawl

    mid-17th century

    Description

    White shoulder mantle bordered with red flowers and hashia of serpentine buds.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 241 x 126cm (94 7/8 x 49 5/8in.)

    Medium

    Cashmere twill tapestry

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    45.540

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (atsuita)

    late 17th to early 18th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe for a male role (atsuita) with a green ground and overall design of peonies in light green, orange, pale blue, pale yellow and brown silk and undulating vertical lines (tatewaku) in white silk supplemental weft patterning. There is a reddish-orange plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    143.5 x 139.7 cm (56 1/2 x 55 in.)

    Medium

    Silk twill with supplementary silk and gilt-paper wefts tied

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.1155

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (karaori)

    early 19th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe for female roles (karaori) of alternating color blocks of white and purple patterned with sails, pines and mist in blue, orange, green, purple, white and tan silk and concentric waves (seigaiha) in gilt paper. There is a red plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    147.3 x 137.8 cm (58 x 54.25 in. )

    Medium

    Silk twill with resist-dyed warps and supplementary silk and gilt-paper patterning wefts

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.1149

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (nuihaku)

    late 17th to early 18th century

    Description

    Short-sleeved dark blue silk satin robe covered with an overall design of camellias embroidered in blue, green, orange and white over a stenciled gold leaf bamboo latticework.

    Details

    Dimensions

    145.4 x 132.1 cm (57 1/4 x 52 in.)

    Medium

    Silk satin, embroidered with silk, with stenciled gold leaf (nuihaku)

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.3792

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Two textile lengths, stitched together

    About 1700

    Description

    Panel composed of two widths of "bizzare" pattern weaving. Steel blue damask ground with pattern of sickle-shaped leaves with scalloped edges; thin undulating stems with fantastic flower and leaf forms woven in silver and coral silk yarns; unlined; silver gimp applied at edges of panel; burgundy silk lining. See also Vivienne Westwood, pair of woman's shoes (access. no. 2002.672.1-2).

    Details

    Dimensions

    Legacy dimension: 244.0 x 113.0 cm (96 1/4 x 43 in.)

    Medium

    Silk damask with supplementary silk and metal-wrapped patterning wefts

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1977.179

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Man's semi-formal court robe (jifu)

    first quarter of the 18th century

    Description

    Man's semi-formal court robe (jifu) with horse-hoof cuffs and side opening with round metal buttons and a design of waves and mountains across the bottom, above which are nine five-clawed dragons holding pearls, clouds, Artemisia leaf, coins and coral in polychrome silk, gilt paper strip and metallic gold thread discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts on a yellow silk satin ground, navy blue silk piping at neck and front edges, lined with pink plain-weave silk.

    Details

    Dimensions

    139.5 x 206 cm (54 15/16 x 81 1/8 in.)

    Medium

    Silk satin-weave ground with silk, metallic gold thread and gilt paper strip discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts tied down with supplementary warps in twill-weave

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    02.49

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Man's court sash (patka)

    about 1700

    Description

    A sash consisting primarily of undyed cotton, with narrow borders of fan-shaped yellow chrysanthemums outlined in red, presented in alternating directions between undulating leafy stems. The pallakas contain five tall chrysanthemum plants bearing similarly fan-shaped flowers on long, leafy stems. Each plant tapers to a curving end. The ends are trimmed in gilt yarn fringe.

    An important element of male courtly attire in 16th, 17th, and 18th-century India, the patka or girdle played a symbolic and decorative role comparable to the necktie today. Often the most lavishly decorated component of a man's formal dress, the patka tied at the waist with the ends hanging toward the knees. The length of the ends and the position of the knot changed according to the fashions of the times. The ends of the patka, known as the pallakas, tend to be more elaborately and sumptuously ornamented than the central area, with lavish embroidery and metal thread. Because rulers often granted patkas as token of esteem, the sashes became symbols of political status as well as emblems of wealth and good taste.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 67 x 525.8cm (26 3/8 x 207in.)

    Medium

    Cotton plain weave, block-printed; hand-painted and mordant and resist-dyed, with metal-wrapped thread fringe

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    66.859

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Man's robe restyled as a Tibetan chuba

    17th century

    Description

    Tapestry-woven dragon robe, restyled as Tibetan chuba during the 19th century. Large gold dragon on front and back, ground covered with blue and green clouds. Ying-lung dragon with three eyes, horns and five claws. Restyling incorporates 4 later rank badges and other kossu fabrics

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 146.7 x 191.8 cm (57 3/4 x 75 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Silk, metal-wrapped, and peacock-feather-wrapped thread slit tapestry

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    2001.145

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Man's semi-formal court robe (jifu)

    fourth quarter of the 18th century

    Description

    Man's semi-formal court robe (jifu) with horse-shoe cuffs and side opening with round gold metal buttons and design of water and mountain along the bottom; above which are nine five-clawed dragons, sacred pearl, bats and clouds on an interlocking swastika background pattern in light and dark gold-wrapped thread discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts; eyes of dragons brocaded in blue and white silk; neckband and cuffs of black satin patterned with continuous supplementary gold-metallic wefts and sleeve extensions of navy blue twill-weave silk with pale yellow stripes in silk discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts; lined with blue plain-weave silk.

    Details

    Dimensions

    145.4 x 198.1 cm (57 1/4 (CB) x 78 in.)

    Medium

    Silk satin-weave ground with gold-wrapped thread discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts tied down with supplementary warps in twill-weave; metal buttons

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    50.744

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Piece of velvet

    Late 19th century

    Description

    White ground. The design of open single flowers ("passion flowers"?), is printed with light bluish violet, light green, pink and brown. Some of the outline and details are of dark green.

    Details

    Dimensions

    22.3 x 25 cm (8 3/4 x 9 13/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed silk velvet

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    98.73

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Piece of velvet

    Late 19th century

    Description

    White ground; the design of fleur-de-lis is printed with strong violet, green and pink.

    Details

    Dimensions

    16.8 x 24.4 cm (6 5/8 x 9 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed silk velvet

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    98.72

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Brown and white grid pattern with green, yellow, and brown jewel and bead motifs

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 16.1 x 16.8 cm (6 5/16 x 6 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1807a

    Collections

    Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    third quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Brown ground with green geometric vine pattern, pink and orange geometric floral motifs with small brown dots along edges of petals

    Details

    Dimensions

    14.7 x 11.7 cm (5 13/16 x 4 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1807d

    Collections

    Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Red, yellow, and blue flowers outlined in dark brown; light brown ground with dark brown grid pattern of crosses, dots, and ovals with fine diagonal lines; selvedge

    Details

    Dimensions

    16 x 24 cm (6 5/16 x 9 7/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1807g

    Collections

    Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    mid-19th century

    Description

    Brown ground with dark brown rows of dot, leaf, and double C-scroll motifs

    Details

    Dimensions

    10.3 x 15 cm (4 1/16 x 5 7/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1806i

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    mid-19th century

    Description

    Dark blue ground with pink, red, and dark yellow naturalistic flowers framed by purple looping line with blossoms with white dots

    Details

    Dimensions

    22 x 15.7 cm (8 11/16 x 6 3/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1806h

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    last quarter of the 18th century

    Description

    Floral trailspatternwith dark brown stems, lighter brown leaves, and red and dark yellow blossoms, selvedge with two blue threads

    Details

    Dimensions

    21 x 27.5 cm (8 1/4 x 10 13/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1805f

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Brown star pattern with six-pointed stars, lighter brown stippled triangular shapes with thorny stem outlines, and clusters of three blossoms

    Details

    Dimensions

    10.4 x 15.2 cm (4 1/8 x 6 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1806d

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Dark brown and light brown zigzag stripes, dark brown double slash marks in corners of the light brown stripes

    Details

    Dimensions

    11.2 x 22.1 cm (4 7/16 x 8 11/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave (calico)

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1806f

    Collections

    Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    1820s

    Description

    Mauve leaf motifs with dark red leaves and dotted stems

    Details

    Dimensions

    16.2 x 24.7 cm (6 3/8 x 9 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1807h

    Collections

    Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Dark brown, light brown, and red floral sprigs on a ground of small dark brown circles, selvedge

    Details

    Dimensions

    16.2 x 24.7 cm (6 3/8 x 9 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1807j

    Collections

    Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    1840s

    Description

    Diamond pattern of brown diamonds with white centers linked by brown diagonal lines

    Details

    Dimensions

    15.9 x 24.3 cm (6 1/4 x 9 9/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1816c

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    1820–40

    Description

    Floral trails pattern of red flowers with black stems on yellow and light brown striped ground with white vermicular pattern, selvedge on left

    Details

    Dimensions

    7 x 24.3 cm (2 3/4 x 9 9/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave (possibly block-printed)

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1816f

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    about 1830

    Description

    Purple stippled leaves with yellow berries alternating with rows of a light brown vermicular pattern; warp and weft check

    Details

    Dimensions

    18.3 x 18.7 cm (7 3/16 x 7 3/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave, supplementary warps and wefts

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1817c

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    last quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Floral trails with naturalistic red, pink, blue, purple, and yellow flowers with black stems and green leaves

    Details

    Dimensions

    7.5 x 17.2 cm (2 15/16 x 6 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton twill

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1813

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Red floral sprigs with green and yellow stems and leaves outlined in dark brown, red berry motifs, and damask-patterned ground of light brown vertical lines and dots

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 23.5 x 16.2 cm (9 1/4 x 6 3/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1808j

    Collections

    Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Green and red stripes with thinner yellow, red, and blue stripes

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 13.7 x 23.5 cm (5 3/8 x 9 1/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1808c

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Bright red ground with yellow, green, blue, and white leaf motifs

    Details

    Dimensions

    Other: 16.2 x 14.3 cm (6 3/8 x 5 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1808d

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    1830s

    Description

    Red ground with bright yellow floral trails pattern with large stippled leaves, large black-dotted and yellow pods, small dots or berries, and small yellow blossoms

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 15.9 x 12.7 cm (6 1/4 x 5 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave (probably discharge print)

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1808h

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Brown ground with beige zigzagging diagonal lines and dark brown broken diagonal lines

    Details

    Dimensions

    14.8 x 10 cm (5 13/16 x 3 15/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1805c

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Red and white diamond pattern, glazed surface, illegible printing on white margin at bottom (end of the piece or length of cloth)

    Details

    Dimensions

    17 x 23 cm (6 11/16 x 9 1/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1804g

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    early 19th century

    Description

    Oak pattern with dark yellow ground, wide rows of white and stippled dark brown leafy branches with white acorns, alternating rows of stylized leaves with borders of yellow circles with brown outlines

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 62.2 x 47 cm (24 1/2 x 18 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Discharge- and block-printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed , block

    Accession Number

    98.1795

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    around 1850

    Description

    Patchwork pattern with solid brown blocks and dark red, green, blue, yellow and brown blocks with striped, geometic and floral patterns

    Details

    Dimensions

    30.7 x 33 cm (12 1/16 x 13 in.)

    Medium

    Roller-printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed , roller

    Accession Number

    98.1796a

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    1830s

    Description

    Brownish red ground, dark yellow scrolled vines with blue and yellow flowers, small blue bellflowers, and green and brown leaves with striped or spotted patterns; glazed surface

    Details

    Dimensions

    20 x 17 cm (7 7/8 x 6 11/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1796c

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    1820s

    Description

    Blue green and yellow vertically striped ground (rainbow pattern), alternating rows of red and yellow leaves, yellow tear-drop motifs, and blue flowers; selvedge on left

    Details

    Dimensions

    23.7 x 46.5 cm (9 5/16 x 18 5/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1793

    Collections

    Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Red ground with pattern of white cords and tassels with garlands of white and pink roses with blue leaves

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 34.6 x 37.1cm (13 5/8 x 14 5/8in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1792

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Red, blue, and gray textile fragment with white ground, pattern of parrot on limb of a flowering tree above a pair of smaller birds in a pool surrounded by flowers

    Details

    Dimensions

    40.5 x 69 cm (15 15/16 x 27 3/16 in.)

    Medium

    Roller-printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed , roller

    Accession Number

    98.1790

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    1770s

    Description

    Reddish brown floral trails pattern (may have faded from purple)

    Details

    Dimensions

    73.5 x 42 cm (28 15/16 x 16 9/16 in.)

    Medium

    Block-printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed , block

    Accession Number

    98.1789

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    early 19th century

    Description

    Dark brown ground, yellow-brown grape vine pattern with white grape bunches and flowers, glazed surface

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 27.9 x 45.7 cm (11 x 18 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1791

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    second quarter of the 19th century

    Description

    Brown ground with small purple, red, blue, green, and yellow motifs with black outlines

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 14.2 x 8.9 cm (5 9/16 x 3 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1796f

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th century

    Description

    Black ground with pattern of brown branch and berry motifs; red, white and light brown flowers with green and yellow leaves

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 16.2 x 18 cm (6 3/8 x 7 1/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1801c

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Moire pattern of small brown wavy lines with jagged white diagonal lines, glazed surface

    Details

    Dimensions

    15.5 x 24.2 cm (6 1/8 x 9 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1804a

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th century

    Description

    Red and white diamond pattern, single blue thread in selvage

    Details

    Dimensions

    15.7 x 24.5 cm (6 3/16 x 9 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1804b

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Blue ground, small black geometric shell motifs, selvedge on right, glazed surface

    Details

    Dimensions

    12 x 24.7 cm (4 3/4 x 9 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1804c

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    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Diagonal rows of light brown sickle shapes on brown ground, selvedge with at least single blue thread

    Details

    Dimensions

    15.5 x 22.6 cm (6 1/8 x 8 7/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1803f

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th century

    Description

    Dark brown ground with rows of light brown sprig motifs

    Details

    Dimensions

    15.7 x 19 cm (6 3/16 x 7 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1803e

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th century

    Description

    Brown ground with red diagonal zigzag lines with small attached leaf motifs, selvedge on right, remnants of glaze on surface

    Details

    Dimensions

    15 x 22.7 cm (5 7/8 x 8 15/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed plain weave cotton

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1803a

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    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Dark brown ground, vertical light brown wavy lines joined by dotted lines with yellowish green stem motifs, selvage on left

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 14.9 x 23.2 cm (5 7/8 x 9 1/8 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave (possibly discharge print)

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1803b

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Textile fragment

    late 18th century

    Description

    Dark brown ground with red diamond pattern with blossom motifs, remnants of glaze on surface, selvedge on right

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 17.5 x 22.7 cm (6 7/8 x 8 15/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles , Printed

    Accession Number

    98.1803c

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    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Piece of brocade

    Late 17th–18th century

    Description

    White silk ground on which is a design of large flowers etc., woven with bright yellow, green, two shades of pink, blue, and bluish violet silk.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 38.1 x 24.1 cm (15 x 9 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Brocade

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    93.877

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Man's court sash (patka)

    17th or early 18th century

    Description

    A dark blue sash of silk brocade is decorated on both ends with a series of ivory-colored chevron-patterned bands. The narrow edges and wide ends of the sash consist of multi-colored embroidered flowers on a gold brocade ground. In the pallaka (end) panels, four tall flowering plants, perhaps poppies, serve as perches for blue and green birds. Gold fringe falls from both ends.

    An important element of male courtly attire in sixteenth-, seventeenth-, and eighteenth-century India, the patka or girdle played a symbolic and decorative role comparable to the necktie today. Often the most lavishly decorated component of a man's formal dress, the patka tied at the waist with the ends hanging toward the knees. The length of the ends and the position of the knot changed according to the fashions of the times. The ends of the patka, known as the pallakas, tend to be more elaborately and sumptuously ornamented than the central area, with lavish embroidery and metal thread. Because rulers often granted patkas as token of esteem, the sashes became symbols of political status as well as emblems of wealth and good taste.

    Details

    Dimensions

    330 x 52.1 cm (129 15/16 x 20 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Cotton compound weave (twill and plain weave) with supplementary silk and metal-wrapped patterning wefts

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    66.858

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    19th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of tortoise shell hexagons. Columns, dividing bands, border: light green figured silk with patterns of interlocking tortoise shell hexagons (kikko tsunagi) and lozenges (matsukawabishi). Interlocking geometric patterns (shukko) and cloud motifs fill in the lozenge patterns created by the large overlapping hexagons. Shiten, niten: not extant. Lining: silk plain-weave fabric of degummed red warps and degummed indigo wefts. Inscription in ink, on the edge of the lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x width: 105 x 202 cm (41 5/16 x 79 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Silk, gilt paper; lampas with 4and1 satin foundation and 1/2 twill supplementary weave (nishiki); pieced

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.3941

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    latter half of the 19th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of lotus petals floating on water. Columns, dividing bands, border: green silk ground with figured patterns of running water and floating lotus petals. The flat gold-leafed paper yarn is very thin. In addition to the flat gold-leafed paper and single-color threads, two differently colored threads are twisted to form one weft yarn. A red, round braided cord is attached in two places to the outer fabric. Shiten, niten: red silk three-harness warp-faced twill ground with woven-in patterns of butterfly roundels and clouds in supplementary wefts of flat gold-leafed paper thread. Lining: silk plain-weave fabric of degummed red warps and degummed indigo wefts.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x width: 121 x 201 cm (47 5/8 x 79 1/8 in.)

    Medium

    Nishiki, silk, gilt paper; 2/1 weave with continuous (gilt paper) and discontinuous (silk) supplementary wefts bound in 1\2 twill order; pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.3933

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    late 19th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of shokko patterns. Columns, dividing bands, border: red silk figured satin-weave ground with interlocking octagons and squared shokko. Two types of floral patterns decorate the interiors of the octagonal motifs, and the seven treasures (shippo) and diamond patterns ornament the interiors of the square motifs. Shiten, niten: white silk three-harness warp-faced twill weave ground with motifs of Sanskirit characters surrounded by simplified dragon forms. Lining: white silk four-harness warp-faced twill ground with patterns of reversed swastikas in twill weave.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x width: 107 x 210 cm (42 1/8 x 82 11/16 in.)

    Medium

    Silk, gilt paper; 4and1 satin weave with continuous supplementary wefts bound in 1/4 twill order (shuchin); pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.3956

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    late 19th to early 20th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of Shakkyo patterns. Columns, dividing bands, border: red silk ground patterned in the long floats of the supplementary wefts. Horizontal bands of clouds decorate the upper portion, followed in descending order by Chinese lions and peonies, and waterfalls and peonies. Three fragments of cloth, each measuring 66.9 cm, have been joined horizontally. Together they include the motifs used in the No play entitled "Shakkyo," and this was clearly the intention of the maker of the garment. A white twisted cord sewn onto the outer fabric delineates the columns, dividing bands, and borders. Shiten, niten: white ground patterned with lotus roundels in long floats of supplementary wefts. Lining: white six-harness warp-faced twill weave with designs of butterfly roundels and undulating vertical bands (tatewaku) in twill weave.

    Details

    Dimensions

    117.9 x 199.5 cm (46 7/16 x 78 9/16 in.)

    Medium

    Karaori, silk, gilt paper; lampas with 2/1 twill foundation and 1/2 twill supplementary weave; pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.3971

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    latter half of the 19th to early 20th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of flower baskets. Columns, dividing bands, border: red silk six-harness twill weave ground patterned with flower baskets in the long floats of the supplementary wefts. The flat gold-leafed paper thread glitters brilliantly. The flower baskets are rendered in horizontal bands using flat gold-leafed paper and multicolored supplementary wefts. Shiten, niten: white silk ground patterned with flower baskets in the long floats of the supplementary wefts. The same motif appears on the columns, dividing bands, and border. Lining: silk plain-weave fabric of degummed dark blue warps and degummed brown wefts (modern addition).

    Details

    Dimensions

    110.8 x 202.8 cm (43 5/8 x 79 13/16 in.)

    Medium

    Appliquéd Karaori, silk, gilt paper; silvered paper filé; 5/1 twill weave with continuous supplementary wefts (gilt paper) bound in 1/2 twill order and discontinuous supplementary weft floats (silk and filé); pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    21.199

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Saltillo sarape

    early 19th century

    Description

    Sarape (Shoulder blanket). Two panels, sewn together. Scalloped medallion zig-zag with stripes in white, red, green, blue on charcoal/brown background; field with white diamond and zig-zag stripes on checkered brown/blue background; small floral motif on side and end borders; solid bands at ends. Warp ends knotted as fringe. Wool weft, cotton.

    Details

    Dimensions

    202 x 113 cm (79 1/2 x 44 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Wool and cotton tapestry with diagonal and dovetail joins

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    1980.68

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Saltillo sarape

    1850–70

    Description

    Sarape made two panels, sewn together. Centermost pink diamond, blue/white concentric diamond medallion of light/dark blue zig-zag stripes on white background. Warp ends knotted as fringe. Wool weft, cotton warp. Condition: some areas of reweaving, holes, stains; green tape selvedges.

    Details

    Dimensions

    223 x 121 cm (87 13/16 x 47 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Wool and cotton tapestry with diagonal and dovetail

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    1980.67

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Saltillo sarape

    mid-19th century

    Description

    Saltillo sarape with all-over design of broken lines in white, light and dark blue, green, yellow and pinks; diamond-shaped medallion in center; straight bands of same colors on ends into which a cotton fringe is knotted which is a later addition; sides bound with brown cotton tape; made in two breadths and sewn together.

    Details

    Dimensions

    249 x 124 cm (98 1/16 x 48 13/16 in.)

    Medium

    Wool tapestry with diagonal and dovetail joins

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    00.413

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Transitional blanket

    1885–95

    Description

    White warp; natural brown, ecru, red, gold wefts. "Eye-dazzler" design: center pattern of stepped, vertical zig-zags forming three stepped diamonds in vertical row; bands at each end.

    Details

    Dimensions

    202.5 x 120 cm (79 3/4 x 47 1/4 in.)

    Medium

    Wool tapestry weave with diagonal joins

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1980.92

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Saltillo sarape

    early 19th century

    Description

    Saltillo sarape with main field of dark blue and black, zigzag stripes of white and brown; round medallion in center filled with lines and geometrical forms in white, pink, light and dark blue, and brown; border of groups of S shaped and circular forms; green and black woolen cord sewed on sides, and long cotton fringe sewed on the ends; made in two breadths.

    Details

    Dimensions

    232 x 113 cm (91 5/16 x 44 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Wool and cotton tapestry with diagonal and dovetail joins

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    02.504

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Saltillo sarape

    mid-19th century

    Description

    Main field blue and black, with zigzag stripes in white; round medallion in center filled with lines and geometrical forms in red, blue and white; border of groups of S shaped and circular forms in blue, red and white; colors strong and fresh; made in two breadths and sewed together; loose cotton warp threads on ends.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 108 x 200cm (42 1/2 x 78 3/4in.)

    Medium

    Cotton and wool tapestry with diagonal and dovetail joins

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    02.505

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Saltillo sarape

    1850–70

    Description

    Serape (Shoulder blanket). Two panels, sewn together. Aggregate diamond medallion on field of zig-zag stripes; solid color bands at ends; colors: red, blue, green, brown, white, yellow. Warp ends knotted as fringe. Wool weft, cotton warp. Condition: some spots, stains.

    Details

    Dimensions

    234 x 112 cm (92 1/8 x 44 1/8 in.)

    Medium

    Wool and cotton tapestry with diagonal and dovetail joins

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    1980.66

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of chrysanthemums. Columns, dividing bands, borders, shiten, niten: red silk ground patterned with chrysanthemum bushes in the floats of the supplementary wefts. The supplementary-weft floats are not very long, but the relaxed quality is still apparent. Although the chrysanthemum motifs are a bit stylized, they are not rigid. This is a special characteristic of karaori from the latter half of the eighteenth century through the first half of the nineteenth century. Lining: Purple plain-weave silk, probably of the same period as the outer fabric.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x width: 113.3 x 212.7 cm (44 5/8 x 83 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Appliquéd silk, gilt paper; 2/1 twill weave with continuous supplementary wefts (gilt paper) bound in 1/2 twill order and discontinuous supplementary-weft floats (silk) bound at intervals; pieced and appliquéd (Karaori)

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    21.202

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    17th or 18th century

    Description

    Six-columned kesa with decoration of lotus arabesques. Columns: Satin weave indigo blue silk ground with woven-in patterns of lotuses and scrolling vines in supplementary wefts of flat gold-leafed paper thread. Rest of the kesa: Four-harness warp-faced light green silk twill ground with woven-in patterns of peonies with double-tendrilled scrolling vines in supplementary wefts of flat gold-leafed paper thread. Lining: White plain-weave silk.
    Inscription: @ (in ink). White and green plain silk braid attached.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x width: 110.3 x 188.1 cm (43 7/16 x 74 1/16 in.)

    Medium

    Appliquéd silk, gilt paper Columns: lampas with 3/1 twill foundation and plain-weave supplementary weave (kinran) Rest of the kesa: 3/1 broken twill with continuous supplementary wefts bound in plain-weave order Pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.261

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    late 19th to early 20th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of shokko patterns. Columns, dividing bands, border, shiten: red silk ground with figured patterns of interlocking geometric shapes (shokko). Chrysanthemums enclosed within square-shaped motifs are linked with four-petalled flowers. Chrysanthemum arabesques and reversed swastikas decorate the interstitial spaces. The pattern no longer exhibits the formal quality of the original Japanese design. Niten: none. Lining: silk plain-weave fabric of degummed red warps and degummed white wefts.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x width: 137.9 x 222.5 cm (54 5/16 x 87 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Appliquéd silk, Lampas with plain-weave foundation and 1/3 twill supplementary weave; pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    21.203

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Melancholic Woman and Attendant

    about 1590 with later border

    Attributed to Kesava

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 42.6 x 26.2 cm (16 3/4 x 10 5/16 in. )

    Medium

    Opaque watercolor and gold on paper

    Classification

    Object accessories , Object accessories

    Accession Number

    14.688

    Collections

    Asia

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  • Calligraphy

    About 1650

    Signed by "The Miserable Ali"

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 38.2 x 25.4cm (15 1/16 x 10in.) Other (Without borders): 15.6 x 8.2cm (6 1/8 x 3 1/4in.)

    Medium

    Opaque watercolor and gold on paper

    Classification

    Calligraphy

    Accession Number

    60.170

    Collections

    Asia

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  • Harivamsa (Genealogy of Krishna): The Birth and Escape of Krishna

    About 1590, border added later

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    22.2 x 11.7 cm (8 3/4 x 4 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Opaque watercolor and gold on paper

    Classification

    Books and manuscripts

    Accession Number

    66.148

    Collections

    Asia

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  • Length of a dress or furnishing fabric

    1650–1700

    Description

    Length of fabric with overall pattern of flowers against a ground of cloth-of-silver (a twill ground of cream-colored yarn with weft yarns wrapped in silver); pink and green flowers (perhaps poppies) appear in staggered rows; each flower consists of a single blossom seen in profile and a small bud on a leafy stem.

    Details

    Dimensions

    57 x 72 cm (22 7/16 x 28 3/8 in.)

    Medium

    Silk twill-weave ground with polychrome silk and silver metallic thread discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    68.96

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Man's court sash (patka)

    late 17th or early 18th century

    Description

    Sash of undyed plain-weave cotton with borders of red and blue flowers on a green ground; borders are repeated four times to divide the central field from the pallakas at each end; pallakas consist of rows of lozenge-shaped red flowers against an natural undyed ground; short natural cotton fringe on each crosswise end.

    An important element of male courtly attire in sixteenth-, seventeenth-, and eighteenth-century India, the patka or girdle played a symbolic and decorative role comparable to the necktie today. Often the most lavishly decorated component of a man's formal dress, the patka tied at the waist with the ends hanging toward the knees. The length of the ends and the position of the knot changed according to the fashions of the times. The ends of the patka, known as the pallakas, tend to be more elaborately and sumptuously ornamented than the central area, with lavish embroidery and metal thread. Because rulers often granted patkas as token of esteem, the sashes became symbols of political status as well as emblems of wealth and good taste.

    Details

    Dimensions

    353 x 47 cm (139 x 18 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Cotton plain-weave, painted and treated with mordants, resist-dyed

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    66.865

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Portrait of Mota Raja Udai Singh of Jodhpur

    about 1580

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 27.6 x 19.2cm (10 7/8 x 7 9/16in.) Other (Without borders): 10.8 x 7.2cm (4 1/4 x 2 13/16in.)

    Medium

    Opaque watercolor and gold on paper

    Classification

    Books and manuscripts

    Accession Number

    14.666

    Collections

    Asia

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  • Man Leading a Horse

    late 16th century

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    20.9 x 31.8 cm (8 1/4 x 12 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Opaque watercolor and gold on paper

    Classification

    Books and manuscripts

    Accession Number

    17.1352

    Collections

    Asia

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  • Plants and their Application to Ornament

    1897

    Eugène Samuel Grasset, French (born in Switzerland), 1841–1917

    Description

    London: Chapman & Hall, Ltd. [1897]

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 45.6 x 33.6 x 3.8 cm (17 15/16 x 13 1/4 x 1 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Illustrated book with 72 color lithographs

    Classification

    Illustrated Books

    Accession Number

    2004.2272

    Collections

    Europe , Prints and Drawings

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    19th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of chrysanthemums and flowing water. Columns, dividing bands, border: the silk ground fabric of red, yellow, and purple bands is patterned with flowing water, chrysanthemums, snow-laden bamboo grass, and pines in the long floats of the supplementary wefts. Chrysanthemums, snow-laden bamboo, pines, and large bamboo baskets float along the flowing water. There are no breaks in the bands; instead, the colors are interwoven. Shiten, niten: red silk ground with woven-in patterns of chrysanthemum arabesques in supplementary wefts of flat gold-leafed paper thread. Lining: none.

    Details

    Dimensions

    109.5 x 171.5 cm (43 1/8 x 67 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Appliquéd silk, plain weave ground with silk floss and gilt paper as supplementary weft (karaori), pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    43.794

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    latter half of 19th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of peonies. Columns, dividing bands, border: gold figured silk with peony motifs. The gold ground is decorated with large peonies and curved branches. Shiten, niten: in each corner, there is a red silk ground fabric with a representation of one of the Four Guardian Kings woven in supplementary wefts of flat gold-leafed paper thread. The two panels on either side of the central column contain the same figures as the two squares in the upper left and right corners. Lining: light blue silk monochrome figured satin-weave with mandarin orange and diamond-shaped motifs. Set with 39.1.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x width: 114.7 x 198.2 cm (45 3/16 x 78 1/16 in.)

    Medium

    Appliquéd Nishiki, silk, gilt paper; lampas with 2/1 twill foundation and 1/2 twill supplementary weave; pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    39.2

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Seven columned kesa with decoration of snow-covered chrysanthemums. Columns, sections of dividing bands, border: gold silk ground patterned with layers of of stylized snowflakes in the long floats of the supplementary wefts. Chrysanthemums and abstract floral motifs covered by the snow overlap to create a wave pattern. Sections of dividing bands, shiten, niten: gold silk figured satin-weave ground with designs of clouds, butterflies, and the myriad treasures. The butterfly motifs are are also seen on Western-style plants, suggesting the possible influence of European textiles. Lining: red plain-weave silk.

    Details

    Dimensions

    HxW:109.2 x 202.6 cm (43 x 79 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Columns: silk, gilt paper; 2/1twill weave with continuous supplementary wefts (gilt paper) bound in twill order and discontinuous supplementary weft floats (silk) bound at intervals (karaori) Dividing bands: silk, silvered paper; lampas with 4/1 satin foundation and 1/2 twill supplementary weave (shuchin); pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    50.298

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Buddhist priest's robe (kesa)

    latter half of 18th to first half of 19th century

    Description

    Seven-columned kesa with decoration of geometric lozenges and peonies. Columns, dividing bands, borders: medium-toned blue figured silk with geometric lozenges and peony motifs. The geometric lozenges with floral centers form the background, and large peony motifs float on this surface. Similar to the seven-columned kesa with decoration of geometric lozenges and peonies (60.1165a). Shiten, niten: none. Lining: gray striped plain-weave silk. This kesa is part of a set including the ohi with decoration of geometric lozenges and peonies (60.1164b).

    Details

    Dimensions

    Height x width: 109.1 x 199.0 cm (42 15/16 x 78 3/8 in.)

    Medium

    Appliquéd silk, gilt paper; 4and1 satin weave patterned with complementary wefts bound in 1/2 twill order and continuous supplementary wefts (gilt paper) bound in 1\4 twill order (nishiki); pieced and appliquéd

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    60.1164a

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Sample of furnishing fabric: "Windrush"

    Design registered 1883

    Designed by William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    "Windrush" design sample printed at Merton Abbey in light green, gold, black and white. "Windrush" takes its name from a tributary of the Thames. Design of large scale flowers on undulating stems in part inspired by 15th century Italian and Near Eastern textile patterns. One repeat: full loom width. Along left selvedge: REGD, MORRIS & COMPANY.

    Details

    Dimensions

    98 x 63.5 cm (38 9/16 x 25 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1976.14

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Fragment of furnishing fabric: "Tulip"

    Design registered 1875

    Designed by William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    The "tulip" chintz designed by William Morris and produced by Thomas Wardle at Leek. Woodblock printed in two shades of blue and in tan. Over one full repeat of stylized tulips and large curving leaves against a ground covered with small leafy branches.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 67.9 x 152.4 cm (26 3/4 x 60 in.)

    Medium

    Block-printed cotton plain weave (chintz)

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    45.822b

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    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Sample of furnishing fabric: "Swivel"

    Designed 1877

    Designed by William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    Maroon and rust wool sample. One repeat, selvedge at right. Other three sides hemmed. Symmetrical floral design recalling elements of Renaissance patterns. Small fragment machine sewn to one edge showing same design in green and blue. Original Morris & Co. paper tag attached.

    Details

    Dimensions

    55.5 x 60 cm (21 7/8 x 23 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Wool double cloth

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1976.12

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of furnishing fabric: "Rose and Thistle"

    about 1881

    Designed by William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    Rose and thistle pattern printed in red. Design of large roses on undulating vertical stems separated by thistles. Full loom width hemmed at both ends. Printed along right selvege: REG'D. MORRIS and COMPANY.

    Details

    Dimensions

    65 x 97 cm (25 9/16 x 38 3/16 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1976.13

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Sample of furnishing fabric (one of four of same pattern)

    Early 20th century

    After William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    Small-scale floral design, perhaps adapted from Morris designs of the 1880's such as "Even lode" or the background of "Medway" and issued after Morris's death. All four samples are full loom widths, in red (.15), blue (.16), Greenish blue (.17), and green (.18).

    Details

    Dimensions

    50.5 x 101 cm (19 7/8 x 39 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1976.15

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Sample of furnishing fabric (one of four of same pattern)

    Early 20th century

    After William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    Small-scale floral design, perhaps adapted from Morris designs of the 1880's such as "Even lode" or the background of "Medway" and issued after Morris's death. All four samples are full loom widths, in red (.15), blue (.16), Greenish blue (.17), and green (.18).

    Details

    Dimensions

    50.5 x 101 cm (19 7/8 x 39 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1976.16

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • [One of] 35 All-over patterns

    Early 19th century

    Unidentified artist, French, French

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    13.4 x 9.8 cm (5 1/4 x 3 7/8 in.)

    Medium

    Gouache

    Classification

    Watercolors

    Accession Number

    29.2129

    Collections

    Europe , Prints and Drawings

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  • [One of] 35 All-over patterns

    Early 19th century

    Unidentified artist, French, French

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    12.7 x 19.5 cm (5 x 7 11/16 in.)

    Medium

    Gouache

    Classification

    Watercolors

    Accession Number

    29.2156

    Collections

    Europe , Prints and Drawings

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  • [One of] 35 All-over patterns

    Early 19th century

    Unidentified artist, French, French

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    11.5 x 11.8 cm (4 1/2 x 4 5/8 in.)

    Medium

    Gouache

    Classification

    Watercolors

    Accession Number

    29.2158a-b

    Collections

    Europe , Prints and Drawings

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  • Floral Embroidery Design with large white flowers, small blue...

    Jean François Bony, French, 1754–1825

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    Sheet: 19.2 x 31.5 cm (7 9/16 x 12 3/8 in.) Mount: 23.2 x 36 cm (9 1/8 x 14 3/16 in.)

    Medium

    Watercolor and gouache

    Classification

    Watercolors

    Accession Number

    29.2162

    Collections

    Europe , Prints and Drawings

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  • [One of] 23 Floral embroidery designs

    late 18th–early 19th century

    Jean François Bony, French, 1754–1825

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 16.7 x 20.5 cm (6 9/16 x 8 1/16 in.)

    Medium

    Opaque watercolor on paper

    Classification

    Watercolors

    Accession Number

    29.2188

    Collections

    Europe , Prints and Drawings

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  • Batik sample

    late 19th century

    Description

    Sample of cotton batik with design of strange trees, butterflies, etc, is printed with neutral orange and light neutral orange on a dark blue ground.

    Details

    Dimensions

    42 x 50 cm (16 9/16 x 19 11/16 in.)

    Medium

    Cotton, natural dyes; plain weave,hand-drawn (tulis) wax-resist (batik)

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    21.545

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Lower body wrapper (kain panjang)

    late 19th to early 20th century

    Description

    Man's or woman's rectangular cotton batik lower body wrapper (kain panjang) with an overall pattern of five rows of fish medallions in blue, gray and white on a gray ground, a design possibly inspired by Chinese ceramics.

    Details

    Dimensions

    L x W: 254 x 107 cm (100 x 42 1/8 in. )

    Medium

    Cotton, natural dyes; plain-weave ground, hand-drawn (tulis) wax resist-dyed (batik)

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.1284

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Lower body wrapper (kain sarong)

    late 19th century

    Description

    Man's or woman's cotton batik lower body wrapper (kain sarong) with an overall design in the central field (badan) of floral and leaf motifs in red, black and natural ecru on a dark blue ground. On one end is a red panel (kepala) with a floral design in blue and natural ecru. Across the top and bottom of the garment and on each side of the panel are scalloped borders of natural ecru decorated with red, light and dark blue. This piece has been sewn together to form a tube.

    Details

    Dimensions

    106 x 206 cm (41 3/4 x 81 1/8 in.)

    Medium

    Cotton; plain weave, hand-drawn (tulis) wax-resist (batik)

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.1313

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Lower body wrapper (kain sarong)

    early 20th century

    Description

    Man's or woman's rectangular cotton batik lower body wrapper (kain sarong) with overall design in the main field (badan) of the "broken knife" (parang) pattern in diagonal bands of alternating blue and natural ecru ground with scattered floral motifs in light brown, blue and natural ecru. There is a deep band (kepala) of scrolling floral motifs on alternating bands of blue and light brown ground.

    Details

    Dimensions

    105.0 x 198.0 cm

    Medium

    Cotton, dyes; plain weave, hand-drawn (tulis) wax-resist (batik)

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    43.12

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh theater costume (atsuita)

    19th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe (atsuita) for male role with reddish-orange and dark blue ground color blocks (dangawari) and overall design of cloud-shaped gongs (unban) and hexagonal lozenges (kikko-mon) surrounding diamond-shaped flower motifs in dark blue, light blue, green, orange, white, pink, yellow and gilt paper thread accents. There is a dark blue plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    144.5 x 142 cm (56 7/8 x 55 7/8 in. )

    Medium

    Silk twill ground, warp ikat (kasuri) dyed; silk and gilt-paper (kinran) supplemental weft patterning

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.3799

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (atsuita)

    mid-19th century

    Description

    Noh costume robe (atsuita) for male role with alternating blocks of color and design (dangawari) including diamonds, squares, floral medallions and dragon roundels in violet, blue, brown, red, white, green, yellow and pink silk and gilt paper supplementary weft patterning. There is a purple, plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    160.0 x 142.9 cm (63 CB w/collar x 56.25 in. )

    Medium

    Silk twill with supplementary silk and gilt paper discontinuous patterning wefts tied in 2/1 twill order; ikat dyed ground (karaori)

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.3830

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (karaori)

    late 19th or early 20th century

    Description

    Silk Noh theater robe of reddish-orange and natural ecru color blocks delineated by the warp ikat (kasuri) technique with an overall design of various flower motifs in pink, purple, blue, green, yellow, orange and white silk supplemental weft patterning on a backdrop of bamboo latticework in gilt paper supplemental weft patterning; reddish-orange plain weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    156.5 x 142 cm (61 5/8 x 55 7/8 in. )

    Medium

    Silk twill-weave, ikat-dyed warps and silk and gilt-paper strip discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.3837

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (atsuita)

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe (atsuita) with overall design of young pines, cherry blossoms and paulownia on diagonal bands of dark blue, green, and red created by the warp ikat technique (kasuri). Some embroidered leaves and flowers added at worn areas (shoulder, hem, and collar).

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 156.2 x 135.9 cm (61 1/2 x 53 1/2 in.) Other (Overall): 149.9 cm (59 in.) CB without collar Other (Collar): 12.7cm (5in.)

    Medium

    Silk; twill with ikat-dyed warps (kasuri) and supplementary silk patterning wefts

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    11.3966

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (karaori)

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe (karaori) with alternating color blocks of reddish-orange, light brown and light blue and an overall design of wisteria and wild pinks in green, blue, purple, orange and pink silk discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts and clouds in gilt paper discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts; reddish-orange plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall (Overall height as exhibited including 1/2 of collar measurement): 153 x 135.3 cm (60 1/4 x 53 1/4 in.) Length (Collar overall height): 127 mm (5 in.) Length (Height of robe without collar included): 1466.85 mm (57 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Silk; twill-weave ground, ikat-dyed warps, gilt paper strip discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts tied down with supplementary warps in twill-weave, silk discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.1148

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    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (karaori)

    18th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe (karaori) with alternating color blocks (dangawari) of reddish-orange and natural ecru covered in a gold pine bark lozenge (matsukawa-bishi) and flower motif patterning with overall design of drooping cherry blossoms, phoenix (ho-o) and magpie (kasasagi) roundels in blue, orange, green and purple silk supplemental weft patterning. There is a reddish-orange plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    160.0 x 139.7 cm (63 CB w/collar x 55 in. )

    Medium

    Silk; 2/1 twill ground, ikat-dyed and patterned with silk floats and silk and gilt paper patterning wefts tied in 1/2 twill order

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.1150

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (karaori)

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe (karaori) with alternating color blocks (dangawari) in light blue and orange and an overall design of autumn grasses, clematis and bamboo wickerwork in white, blue, orange, green and gold supplemental weft patterning. There is a purple plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    142.2 x 134.6 cm (56 x 53 in. )

    Medium

    Silk; twill with ikat-dyed warps and supplementary silk and gilt-paper patterning wefts

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.1153

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (atsuita)

    late 18th to early 19th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe for a man's role (atsuita) with alternating color blocks (dangawari) of reddish-orange and natural ecru and an overall design of waves (araumi), cart wheels (genji guruma) and winged dragons in white, blue, green and purple silk and gilt paper supplemental weft patterning. There is reddish-orange plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 146.1 x 137.2cm (57 1/2 x 54in.) Other (Overall): 154.9cm (61in.) Other (Collar): 13.3cm (5 1/4in.) Display dimensions for 1/2013 - 64" X 54"

    Medium

    Silk; 1/2 twill ground, ikat-dyed, gilt-paper patterning wefts tied in 1/2 twill order; silk weft floats; embroidered in later 19th century

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.1154

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (karaori)

    late 18th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe for a female role (karaori) of alternating color blocks (dangawari) in green and natural ecru and overall design of gold latticework and orange trellis covered with evening glories in white, light and dark blue, purple, pink, orange and gold supplemental weft patterning. There is reddish-orange plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    CB: 144.8 x 134.6 cm (57 x 53 in.)

    Medium

    Twill weave ground ikat-dyed and patterned with supplementary wefts of silk and gilt paper

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.1157

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (karaori)

    19th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe for female role (karaori) patterned with pines and sails on alternating blocks of color in reddish-orange and light blue (dangawari); possibly embroidered later at collar back.

    Details

    Dimensions

    158.8 x 139.7 cm (62.50 CB w/collar x 55 in. )

    Medium

    Silk twill, ikat-dyed warps and silk and gilt-paper patterning wefts

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.1169

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (atsuita)

    late 19th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe for a male role (atsuita) of alternating blocks of color (dangawari) in red, purple, green and pale green and overall design of Chinese flowers (karahana) and wheels between undulating vertical lines in green, pink, gold, purple, orange and gilt paper supplemental weft patterning. There is a reddish-orange plain-weave silk lining.

    Details

    Dimensions

    163.5 x 148.6 cm (64.375 CB w/collar x 58.5 in. )

    Medium

    Silk twill ground ikat-dyed, patterned with supplementary silk and gilt-paper patterning wefts

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    15.1174

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Noh costume (karaori)

    late 19th or early 20th century

    Description

    Noh theater robe (karaori) with alternating blocks of color (dangawari) in reddish-orange and white with flowing water in gold and overall design of reeds, wild geese, chrysanthemums and flowing water in blue, purple, green, orange and white silk supplementary weft patterning.

    Details

    Dimensions

    165.2 x 145.5 cm (65 1/16 x 57 5/16 in. )

    Medium

    Silk; twill, ikat-dyed warps and silk and gilt-paper patterning wefts

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    21.184

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Wall hanging (pardha)

    1860

    Description

    Wall hanging consists of 4 1/4 loom widths of silk and cotton ikat, woven in blocks of brilliant color, with jagged edges. The colors appear to be repeated at random but they are in fact the same repeat, the panels being sewn together in random fashion, with the inclusion of several white horizontal, uneven lines, creating the effect of lightning. The design is rare and parts of the original glaze have remained.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 221.6 x 168.9cm (87 1/4 x 66 1/2in.)

    Medium

    Silk and cotton ikat woven in warp-faced plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    2002.10

    Collections

    Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Fragment of furnishing fabric

    late 19th century

    Possibly printed by Morris & Co., English English

    Description

    Cream white ground. The design of branches of magnolia-like flowers, is printed in two shades of yellow and gray blue.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 53.5 x 75 cm (21 1/16 x 29 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Block-printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    93.1134

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Fragment of furnishing fabric

    1880–90

    Possibly printed by Morris & Co., English English

    Description

    The ground is of cream white cotton. The design of acanthus-like leaves and flowers suggesting tulips and marigolds, is printed with gray, blue and greenish yellow.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 177.8 x 78.7 cm (70 x 31 in.)

    Medium

    Block-printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    93.1135

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of furnishing fabric from Yuanmingyuan

    1750–75

    Description

    Length of furnishing fabric from the Yuanmingyuan (Qianlong summer palace) with overall design of peonies and leaves in cut and uncut silk velvet in pale green, blue, light gray, salmon and pink on a voided velvet, creme satin ground.

    Details

    Dimensions

    170 x 64 cm (66 15/16 x 25 3/16 in.)

    Medium

    Silk voided velvet; cut and uncut pine with satin-weave ground

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    41.524

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Sample of furnishing fabric (one of four of same pattern)

    Early 20th century

    After William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    Small-scale floral design, perhaps adapted from Morris designs of the 1880's such as "Even lode" or the background of "Medway" and issued after Morris's death. All four samples are full loom widths, in red (.15), blue (.16), Greenish blue (.17), and green (.18).

    Details

    Dimensions

    50.5 x 101 cm (19 7/8 x 39 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1976.17

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Sample of furnishing fabric (one of four of same pattern)

    Early 20th century

    After William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    Small-scale floral design, perhaps adapted from Morris designs of the 1880's such as "Even lode" or the background of "Medway" and issued after Morris's death. All four samples are full loom widths, in red (.15), blue (.16), Greenish blue (.17), and green (.18). Corner cut out of lower right of 1976.18

    Details

    Dimensions

    50.5 x 101 cm (19 7/8 x 39 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1976.18

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Sample of furnishing fabric: "Crown Imperial"

    Design registered 1876

    Designed by William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    Sample, red wool weft, pink wool warp. One repeat, selvedge at left, cut on three sides. Symmetrical design of flowers encircled by spiralling stems.

    Details

    Dimensions

    59 x 61 cm (23 1/4 x 24 in.)

    Medium

    Wool damask

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1976.54

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of furnishing fabric: "Trail"

    Designed 1891

    Designed by John Henry Dearle, 1860–1932

    Description

    Woodblock print on cotton in red, greens, pink and salmon on white ground. Design of meandering flowers on vine, lesser flora in lighter shade fills out background; 2 1/2 repeats. Marked on selveges: "Reg-Morris and Company, 449 Oxford Street, London W." Originally designed as wallpaper, known as "Flora". Designed for Morris and Co. printed at Merton Abbey.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 97.2 x 97.2 cm (38 1/4 x 38 1/4 in.)

    Medium

    Block-printed cotton plain weave (chintz)

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1981.132

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of velvet furnishing fabric

    1712–14

    Description

    Panel of burgundy and green-gold silk cut and uncut velvet on white satin ground. Woven repeat design of arcaded columns, vases of flowers, and other architectural and floral motifs. Two and one half loom widths. Condition: Good, but some losses, reweavings, and piecing.

    Details

    Dimensions

    360.04 x 139.06 cm (141 3/4 x 54 3/4 in.)

    Medium

    Silk, cut and uncut voided velvet

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1988.531

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of furnishing fabric

    mid-19th century

    Style of Owen Jones, English, 1809–1874 English

    Description

    Turquoise silk satin block-printed in rust color with strapwork moresque design inspired by Owen Jones and Jules Goury's "Plans, elevations, Sections, and Details of the Alhambra." Alhambra inscription: "And there is no victor but God."
    Condition: good; small spots of discoloration throughout

    Details

    Dimensions

    59.69 x 266.7 cm (23 1/2 x 105 in.); Legacy dimension: L x W: 105 x 23 1/2 in. (266.7 x 59.7 cm)

    Medium

    Silk; satin, block-printed

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    1999.459

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of furnishing fabric

    early 20th century

    Marketed by L. C. Chase Co., American American

    Description

    Stamped: "Chase Velmo"

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 228.6 x 132.1 cm (90 x 52 in.)

    Medium

    Wool mohair plush

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    2003.344

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of furnishing fabric

    1920–30

    Description

    Muted blues, oranges, greens, yellows and browns in a blurred geometric repeat pattern.

    Details

    Dimensions

    294.6 x 78.7 cm (116 x 31 in.)

    Medium

    Warp-patterned (ikat) plain weave cotton with paired wefts

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    2003.773

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Length of furnishing fabric: Cray

    about 1884

    Designed by William Morris, English, 1834–1896 English

    Description

    Plain weave cotton block-printed with large-scale pattern of meandering vines of lush peony blossoms and buds, with delicate scrolling leaves; in shades of pink, yellow, blue, green, and white against a cranberry-red ground. Selvedge printed: "Morris & Company 449 Oxford Street London W."

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 381 x 177.8 cm (150 x 70 in.)

    Medium

    Block-printed cotton plain weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    2005.4

    Collections

    Europe , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • [One of] 35 All-over patterns

    Early 19th century

    Unidentified artist, French, French

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    12.7 x 17.7 cm (5 x 6 15/16 in.)

    Medium

    Gouache

    Classification

    Watercolors

    Accession Number

    29.2146

    Collections

    Europe , Prints and Drawings

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  • [One of] 35 All-over patterns

    Early 19th century

    Unidentified artist, French, French

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    12.3 x 16.4 cm (4 13/16 x 6 7/16 in.)

    Medium

    Gouache

    Classification

    Watercolors

    Accession Number

    29.2159

    Collections

    Europe , Prints and Drawings

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  • Length of painted silk

    1790s

    Description

    Length of white ribbed silk with overall pattern of scattered floral sprigs and narrow vertical bands, each composed on nine colored stripes, encircled by a serpentine leafy stem painted with polychrome tempera colors.

    Details

    Dimensions

    65.4 x 71.4 cm (25 3/4 x 28 1/8 in.)

    Medium

    Silk plain-weave (rib variation) painted with polychrome tempera

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    50.147

    Collections

    Asia , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Design for a Ceramic Plate for Albert & Charles Vieillard,...

    about 1875–90

    Attributed to Amédée de Caranza, French, 19th century French

    Description
    Details

    Dimensions

    Sheet: 44.2 x 34.5 cm (17 3/8 x 13 9/16 in.)

    Medium

    Watercolor and ink over graphite

    Classification

    Drawings

    Accession Number

    2000.683

    Collections

    Europe , Prints and Drawings

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  • Late Classic blanket

    1875–80

    Description

    Terraced meanders, diamonds, and crosses on banded ground, indigo on a red ground. Late classic blanket pattern.

    Details

    Dimensions

    132.5 x 83 cm (52 3/16 x 32 11/16 in.)

    Medium

    Wool tapestry weave

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    87.238

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Germantown Eyedazzler

    1895–99

    Description

    Transitional fancy double saddle blanket, known as a Germantown eyedazzler, to be doubled and used with tassels hanging down horse's rump, also very popular trade item. Three zoens with two serrate diamonds and two serrate diagonals at each end, vertical serrate lines across center, on red ground.
    Bright red ground through the middle of which are groups of serrated stripes in bright yellow, green, dark blue and white; across the ends narrow green and blue stripes mark off a space in which are two diamonds and two diagonal stripes in yellow, green, dark blue and white; red fringe on ends, and tassels on corners.

    Details

    Dimensions

    136 x 100 cm (53 9/16 x 39 3/8 in.)

    Medium

    Wool tapestry weave with diagonal joins

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    99.77

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Woman's classic two-piece dress

    1840–60

    Description

    Complete woman's two-piece dress with back and front panel stitched together; black central field with broad red and narrow black bands at top and bottom; on the widest red bands are diamond designs made of blocks

    Details

    Dimensions

    125 x 81.5 cm (49 3/16 x 32 1/16 in.)

    Medium

    Wool tapestry weave with interlock joins

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    99.147

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Sarape

    1855–1866

    Description

    Striped horizontally red, blue and gray; on broad red stripes, terraced chevrons and crosses. Interlocked tapestry weave with lazy lines. 3-ply Saxony or Zephyr yarns imported from Germany with unravelled yarns, S-spun worsted, predominantly dyed with lac; tassels at four corners with light purple-dyed yarn, probably early aniline purple

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 141.6 x 184.2 cm (55 3/4 x 72 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Wool interlocked tapestry weave

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    52.1369

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Late Classic/Transitional blanket

    1890–1900

    Description

    Red wool ground. Throughout the center is a guilloche design of red, blue, and green. On each side are groups of graduated blue, green and white blocks. On each end are zig-zag bands of white, green, and blue. On the corners are tassels of red wool.

    Details

    Dimensions

    134 x 90 cm (52 3/4 x 35 7/16 in.)

    Medium

    Handspun warps and commercial wefts; tapestry weave with interlock joins

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    12.1086

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Transitional large blanket

    about 1885

    Description

    Red wool ground with design of dentated white and blue lines forming diamonds. In each diamond is a smaller diamond made up of two green and two blue triangles. On the corners are tassels of red, yellow and green wool.

    Details

    Dimensions

    150 x 202 cm (59 1/16 x 79 1/2 in.)

    Medium

    Wool tapestry weave with interlock and diagonal joins

    Classification

    Textiles

    Accession Number

    12.1089

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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  • Sarape

    pre–1860

    Description

    Sarape or wearing blanket with bands in red, white, blue and yellow; pink tassle on each corner. Handspun indigo and white yarns, 3-ply pink, red, and pale yellow/green wefts.

    Details

    Dimensions

    Overall: 111.8 x 149.9 cm (44 x 59 in.) Mount (top edge dimension): 101.6 cm (40 in.)

    Medium

    Wool plain weave

    Classification

    Costumes

    Accession Number

    52.1368

    Collections

    Americas , Textiles and Fashion Arts

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