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Bugaku costume in 5 parts: undercoat (shitagansane); vest (hanpi); split skirt (hakama); helmet (torikabuto) and under robe

Japanese
Edo
late 17th century

Medium/Technique (Undercoat) silk damask, resist-dyed, embroidered and and trimed with karaori fabric; (Vest) silk plain weave, embroidered and and trimed with karaori fabric; (Split skirt) silk damask, resist-dyed, embroidered; (Helmut) silk and gold metallic thread (kinran) wth silk cord and metal plaque' (Under robe) silk plain weave
Dimensions Length x width (undercoat): 274.3 × 193 cm (108 × 76 in.)
Length x width (vest): 62.5 × 69.9 cm (24 5/8 × 27 1/2 in.)
Center back (split skirt): 115.6 cm (45 1/2 in.)
Overall (helmut height): 44.5 cm (17 1/2 in.)
Center back (under robe): 129.5 cm (51 in.)
Credit Line Gift of John C. Weber
Accession Number2016.542.1-5
NOT ON VIEW
ClassificationsCostumes

DescriptionUndercoat (shitagansane) of ivory damask, resist-dyed with purple diamond and embroidered with flower; edges of long trains trimmed with karaori; Vest (hanpi) of silk plain weave embroidered with diamonds enclosing birds and flowers; bands of karaori trim along armholes, neck and front; Split skirt (Hakama) of white damask embroidered with small squares and flowers in roundels; lined with beni-dyed plain weave; Helmet (Torikabuto) of green and red kinran, trimmed with silk braided cords and metal plaque (one of two metal plaques is missing); and Under robe, white silk plain weave under robe, lightly padded.
Provenance17th century, possibly made for the Kasuga Shrine, Nara, Japan. 1997, sold by T. Yanagi Oriental Fine Art, Kyoto, to John C. Weber, New York; 2016, gift of John C. Weber to the MFA. (Accession Date: November 9, 2016)