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Child's headdress (chader)

Pakistani (Kohistan)
ca. 1960s

Medium/Technique cotton plainweave, embroidered with silk thread, glass beads, and mother-of-pearl buttons
Dimensions Length x width: 81.3 × 43.2 cm (32 × 17 in.)
Credit Line Gift of Emanuel Balkin
Accession Number2018.3776
NOT ON VIEW
ClassificationsCostumes

DescriptionChild's (or woman's?) hood-shaped headdress of black cotton plainweave, embroidered in red, green, blue, and yellow silk and embroidered with white glass seed beads and various sizes of mother-of-pearl buttons; pointed crown formed by alternating triangles of black and white cotton, channel stitched and stiffened (with sticks or reeds?), the apex issuing beaded fringe pompom surrounded by goldtone metal ring; main portion of hood covering head embroidered in satin stitch with band of green/red leaf-like motifs at top in silk, and broader band of geometric cross stitch below, forming large triangles and voided lozenges containing large mother-of-pearl buttons; square gilt metal ornament at center front forehead, mounted with two curved pointed bones or animal teeth; shoulder-length hood extenting into point at center back, the sides embroidered in phulkari-like satin stitch with red roundels issuing from cross-stitch branch; large central rear panel embroidered mainly in cross-stitch with large radiating motif (four crossed staffs terminating in small eight-pointed stars), the whole surrounded by satin-stitch foliate motifs matching crown and additional bands of geometric cross-stitch; white glass beaded fringe around hood, crown, and hem, with additional beads accenting design throughout; various sizes of carved mother-of-pearl buttons also throughout accenting design; hood lined with red cotton plainweave, center back panel lined with dark blue plainweave.
ProvenanceBetween about 1962 and 1989, acquired by Emanuel Balkin and Lorraine Balkin (b. 1930 - d. 2017) for Décor International, Boston; 2018, gift of Emanuel Balkin to the MFA. (Accession Date: December 12, 2018)

NOTE: Emanuel and Lorraine Balkin founded and operated the gallery Décor International from 1962 until 1989.