The ingqosha, a beadwork collar, is an iconic form of Xhosa beadwork from South Africa. Thousands of glass seed beads are threaded and woven together to form a flat, semi-circular necklace. Historically, Xhosa beadwork was worn by men and women as markers of social roles, status, ethnic identity, and sometimes profession. Wearing beadwork also facilitated connections to the ancestral realm. The distinct color combination of white, light turquoise, and pink is usually associated with Mfengu artistic practices.

In the early 20th century, Xhosa men wore collars like this and other beaded pieces during ceremonial occasions. In 1962, Nelson Mandela, the anti-apartheid activist, arrived at South Africa’s Supreme Court to be sentenced on charges of treason against the apartheid government. He pointedly wore traditional Xhosa attire, including a similar beadwork collar. By donning and appearing in court in an attire associated with South Africa’s pre-colonial past, Mandela expressed his identity as an Indigenous South African, questioned a Black African being judged by a white court, and protested the legitimacy of the trial.