Haute couturier Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel created a fashion lexicon based on her personal style. Her signature look included layers of necklaces and a pair of matching bracelets. An early adopter of “costume” jewelry, as she became more successful she had no problem mixing faux with real. Most of the jewelry she designed over the course of her career was made of glass and gilded metal. Only once, in 1932 at the height of the Great Depression and in an effort to revive the diamond business, did Chanel create a collection using precious materials. Titled "Bijoux de Diamants,” the collection coincided with heightened femininity in her clothing designs that utilized white, lace, and bows. Her jewelry collection included a platinum and diamond necklace in the shape of a bow among the designs. Years later, when Karl Lagerfeld took the helm of her eponymous fashion house in 1983, his meticulous research led him to copy the design using rhinestones for his debut collection as Creative DIrector of Chanel.